So you know that suit I made? I totally forgot to post about the pants, eh?
Umm … oops.
So hey! I made a suit! The blazer was the Style Arc Sara, and the pants were the Style Arc Willow.
The fabric is a poly-wool blend from Fabricland. At $12/m it wasn’t exactly cheap, but that’s a very reasonable price for a wool-blend suiting and something I’m much happier about potentially botching than a $30/m proper wool. Plus it is an incredibly vibrant cobalt blue, which struck me as a fun suit, potentially.
I had enough fabric to make two pairs, which was good, because the first had Issues.
I cut this up and sewed it as a straight 12. Inside seams were serged. And I added pockets. The Willow pattern is pocket-free, and I have a hard time wearing pants without pockets thanks to the insulin pump. Especially in a slim cut, because then there’s nowhere to put a pump-holder inside the pants (at least, not without an odd and conspicuous leg bump). Same pockets that the Jasmine uses; I just merged the angled pocket line with the outlines of the Willow pattern at top.
Because I added pockets, I changed the order of construction: front darts, then pocket construction, then back darts, then sewing leg seams together. I used an invisible zipper that is less invisible than I’d like because it is black. I inserted the zipper before sewing up the side seams, then put on the waistband and hemmed the bottom with their little vents. Bottom hem is a blind stitch. On the inside, the lower waistband edge is serged and then attached to the front with a stitch-in-the-ditch.
They were a bit too snug for me, especially in the back. I can sit, but sitting takes more preparation than I’d typically like to undertake.
In part this is because of my high waist. My back-waist measurement is about 14″, which is shorter than a standard petite size 4. Am I petite? No, I’m not; I’m tall. Yes, I have the upper torso length of a small child. Anyway. The waistband is supposed to be on the waist here, but it’s not. So the waistband pulled everything up uncomfortably.
Added 1 1/2″ to the crotch rise and about 1/4″ to the seams to add a bit more ease in the hips. Otherwise the same. Nice blue zipper that is more invisible, with a beautifully matching purple-blue button. It’s much more wearable and more comfortable. The legs are also a bit looser in these photos than I would have liked (I’ve since snugged them up a bit, but so sorry so cold; pictures of that will have to wait).
I’ve already started on suit 2 (which you’ll know if you follow me on IG). What do you think, Dear Readers? Is this a pants pattern you would use for suits? Or would you go for something more conservative and less slim? Keep in mind that the blazer will be fairly fitted.
3 thoughts on “Style Arc Willow pants”
Looking good! My first two post-coat projects have been pants, updating my jeans pattern with an absurdly short back rise into something that doesn’t make me feel bisected when I sit down. So, I feel you on the importance of the crotch length! I wholeheartedly support the slim pants as part of your suit. I love how they look. If you had extra fabric like you did this time, you could also make a second pair of pants with a more conservative cut – my tailor friend tells me the pants wear out much more quickly than the jacket.
That’s a good point. I’ll have to lay out the pattern pieces and see how much is left over.
And thanks for the slim-cut vote. 🙂
I still can’t believe you can sew a suit. A suit! Brava!