Friends, this constitutes the second of two actual completed projects on my 2018 Make Nine list.
A floral bomber!
This started, as it so often does, from the fabric purchase: the shell is a linen/cotton blend bought at Fabricland at 50% off for a jacket. I got 1.5m and spent at least a month trying to find a good pattern for it. Eventually I settled on the bomber jacket from the April 2017 Burda magazine issue.
I would have preferred a zippered jacket, but it had everything else I wanted: the raglan sleeves, tabs at the bottom, use of cotton ribbing on the cuffs and collar, welt pockets.
It took less time than I thought, but this was mostly because I was determined to have it wearable before it became too hot for jackets. It was not without challenges, however:
- The armscyes were enormous. I had a moment of misgiving after tracing the pattern out, but had never before made a casual jacket and didn’t want to size down too far. So I only took out 1/2″ on the front and back armscyes, and it was not enough. I ended up sewing the seams together with 7/8″ instead of the 5/8″ I traced, and that made a big difference. Unfortunately it also made the jacket shorter. It’s still long enough to wear, but I would have liked that extra inch in length.
- The jacket is not lined. That would have been fine with a normal jacket fabric, but with the linen/cotton, it was too sticky and clung to all the shirts I tried it with while fitting. So I bought some coordinating bemberg for $7/m and quickly sewed up a matching lining. Figuring out how to install it while enclosing seams was a challenge, but in the end it worked out.
One challenge I’ve had with storebought jackets for lo these many years is that a jacket that is loose everywhere else will be snug across the bust. I was determined that this would be loose everywhere, just like in the sample photos, so I did a 2″ FBA on both sides. I left the side darts rather than rotating them out, and just gathered the waist darts into the ribbed hem. And it worked! No straining or weirdness. Nicely baggy, just as a bomber jacket should be.
Also, I’m super happy about how well the collar points lined up:
Right in the middle! Just as they should.
I’ve worn this a ton already. It’s super lightweight since it’s linen, cotton and rayon, so just perfect when you need something to cut a breeze or for a chilly evening. I am not a scarf or shawl person, so this works for me. And it’s super colourful. And it crosses an item off the Make Nine list. It all makes me very happy.
I should be a size 40/44 in Burda; this is a 38 with a 4″ FBA across the front (2″/side). I kept the side darts, and gathered the waist darts into the cotton ribbing.